Answering all your questions!
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The good news is whether its your first home or your 20th you can qualify for 5% down up to $500,000.00, anything after that and you have to put 10% down.
Purchase: $600,000.00
Down payment: 5% of $500,000.00 – 10% of $100,000.00 = $35,000.00 minimum down payment.
If you have 20% down to put on your purchase this is referred to as a conventional mortgage.
If you have 20% down this allows you to avoid CMHC, Genworth, Or Canadian Guarantee, mortgage premiums. This also allows you to amortize your mortgage over 30 years as opposed to 25 years.
A commonly asked question is, “If I have 20% down then why do I have to pay for an appraisal?”
This is because if your mortgage is insured through one of the insurers I just mentioned then the value is either supported by the insurer and they protect the bank against any possible future discrepancies OR the insurer orders and pays for their own appraisal and the cost is covered by the insurance premium your charged. When we order an appraisal for a bank its because they need to see and keep on record the true market value, at the time of purchase of the property they are lending on.
If you have less than 20% down then this is referred to as a high ratio mortgage. You will have premiums based on the amount your borrowing and based on the percentage you are putting down. This percentage changes in increments of 5 percentiles.
The above mentioned are insurers that allow the privilege of having less than 20% down to purchase a home. What they do is protect the lenders against high loan to values. If someone defaults on their mortgage and it leads to a foreclosure these insurers will cover the costs of any loss to the lender. So if the bank has to sell for less than they borrowed the insurers cover the difference.
This is when you sell your house and buy another but the house you are buying closes before the house you are selling. This is doable but higher rates for the time you borrow the extra funds and fees can apply. I don’t get paid from any extra fee they are charged by the lender and lenders have their own rates and fees for this product.
Every bridge finance loan is a case by case scenario.
You need a 2 year track record or we can use your base guaranteed wage if that meets the criteria you need to qualify. Otherwise when calculating your income for your application: in most cases we have to use a 2 year average of your line 150 or T4 income or the lesser of if the most recent years income is less than the previous year. In some cases there are add backs we can use, or some lenders will allow some slight gross ups to your income. This is the most ideal if we can figure out a way to income qualify you.
If we need to get more creative we can also look at B lender alternatives as long as you have 80% loan to value or at least 20% down.
Mortgage Companies, Credit Unions, and Banks.
What are B lenders? See below!
Lenders willing to lend almost completely on equity but high rates and fees apply. Usually rates are anywhere from 8% give or take to 10% give or take. Fees are usually approximately 4% unless the mortgage is less than 100k and the Lender makes the call on what they want to charge and we get paid half the fee.
These lenders are necessary in some cases and have to make sense and have a game plan and a light at the end of the tunnel or we don’t do them.
Further Information
Lenders willing to step out of bank guidelines but have somewhat higher rates and fees apply. Their rates are reasonable but higher than an A lender and there is generally a 2% fee (some brokers charge substantially more) which we get paid half to 1.5% of the fee. This is subject to change if mortgage is less than 100k.
These mortgages require 80% to 75% loan to value and are common when it comes to:
This lender can be a good alternative but in every scenario and whenever I use them my goal is to find a strategy and game plan that allows my clients to get back to the A lender route and as long as they are prepared to listen I have a very high success rate.
Debt ratios are a BIG part of what qualifies you for a mortgage. Many times I try to talk people into keeping these as reasonable as possible unless there is extra income we can’t use in which case I don’t mind being on the higher side.
There are two things that come into play when debt ratios are mentioned in a mortgage.
GDS (gross debt ratios) max 34% or with exceptional credit and explanation 39% – This ratio is based on your:
TDS (total debt ratio) max 42% or with exceptional credit and explanation 44% – This ratio is based on your: